Mugaritz (Errenteria-Astigarraga)** - HE

A quiet road develops slowly and peacefully along the silent green fields. Soon to be white mountain tops separate Errenteria from Astigarraga. The path straightens with each step and an ethereal and misty atmosphere descends silently over the most precious hideout around. There lies Andoni Luis Anduriz's masterpiece: Mugaritz.

Simple and rectilinear lines outline the structure, the flowers climb high abandoning the perfectly organized gardens, the sky plays in the back and epic balad and even the stones move incessantly. Pure harmony.

The senses awake from a numb citadine sleep. Now everything comes back to life, everything is calm and there our journey into the "outer" world began.

Minimalist, liberal, spacious, comfortable, simple, amicable...silence.

white cloth, a sculpture. Two envelopes: to submiss, to rebel. And then Joserra, one of the best for being professional, a friend, for sharing his good vibration and enthusiasm and living everyday as gatekeeper of the Mugaritz's purgatory, a reality that separates a timeless dimension from the ferocious rhythms of Anduriz's and Javi Vergara's brilliant apprentices.

That day Javi held the wand and worked the magic in Mugaritz's fairly new kitchen. He suspended his activities and greet us with sympathy and enthusiasm, everyone seemed happy and eager to please the guests. The state of the art kitchen, the prep kitchen downstairs, the offices and the tailler...impressive, clean.

...and back to our table, the show was about to begin.

A special thanks for Joserra for the second guided visit to the "bowels" and for everything else and to Anduriz (who was not there) for the experience and congratulations for such an achievement, not for the awards or Michelin stars, but for the mixture of feelings sensed throughout the day at Mugaritz. Remarkable!


Service: 19/20
Led by Joserra and with our team composed of Nicolas, Elisabeth, Izaskun, Marta and Zigor the service flowed with perfection. "In our restaurant we are all equal, men and women are alike, and according to our philosophy we will not serve women before men necessarily, unless you want us to"...no problem with that, this is your home, just please us. Sympathy, infallible coordination, informality, correctness and discretion, attentive to details. This has got to be one of the best front of houses team I have ever seen. Thanks Joserra and team and congratulations (also) on this Mugaritz.


Restaurant décor and ambience: 19,5/20
The description above details with precision where we were. Inside a modern and spacious countryside house, low artificial lights to correct the dark rainy day (the restaurant has plenty of natural light). Minimalist the space, minimalist the table, empty, just white cloth and a sculpture. And how the minimalist played along so so well with the comfortable silence of joy and amazement during the lunch. The kitchen: state-of-the-art, open with natural light, white, clean, crowded with a calm and focused staff. The cold prep kitchen downstairs and the offices and the tailler upstairs completed the visit to Mugaritz. Mugaritz is tuned with the place it stands, it is an extension of it, is part of the nature.


Food: 19/20
The food far from comfortable is cooked to perfection, with detail and precision, through complex processes applied to simple ingredients. Perfection, detail and precision are easily spot when ingredients are measured and weighted to the last centimeter and gram and stored in individual portions, so that everyone is served exactly the same quantity; or the stocks are tasted by three different persons in order to preserve quality and consistency. It is impressive the "simplicity" of the dishes composed of two to three components, in general, using classic ingredients in successful and invulgar experiences of technological creativity and modernity. Anduriz constantly plays with textures, temperature and flavours, you may like the food or not, but you cannot ignore his geniality and creativity. Praise for the consistency from the first to the very last dish. The tasting menu is the only available and everything is truly remarkable...

On the menu:
"La boca llena de flores, frutos secos y granos de sal" (left picture): an amazing mixture of textures and flavours served in an edible bag.
"Cristal de almidón y azúcar manchado con praliné y crustáceo" (right picture): what a fine sugary base with a fresh taste of the sea in an unexpected combination.

"Focaccia de almidón de pueraría a la parrila": extra crunchy, simple, perfect."Salsa crujiente com cidra" (left picture): crunchy and ingenious. "Refresco de agua de bulgur. Pepinillo impregnado em ginebra con grano de enebro" (right picture): this fresh derivation from wheat is an unusual but comfortable drink. The gherkin terribly crunchy and natural.

"Vinagre casero de miel, cebada fermentada y corazón de tomate maduro" (bottom left picture): extra points for the complexity of the vinegar and purity of the tomato, however the combination of the two results in an unpleasant explosion of acidity.

"Gelatina de atún con patatas rotas y jugo de marmitako": a traditional home recipe with strong flavours and a blend of textures (soft, liquid, gelatinous).


"Higo cocido en arcilla blanca perfumada con haba tonka" (bottom left picture): sweet burst in the mouth. beautifully presented.


"Potage de avellanas con nácar" (bottom right picture): more impressive the presentation than the flavour itself.



"Shhh...Muerdete la lengua:" (picture below) a masterpiece...the presentation, geniality, flavour, unthinkable texture and surprise and yet so simple.






"Sopa de mortero con especias, semillas, caldo de pescados y hierbas frescas" (picture below): and now the guests work the mortars and prepare the seeds for the herbs and stock. Great idea to promote the interaction between the hosts and the guests.





"Noodles de cerdo con extracto de arraitxikis y arroz inflado": once again a pleasant and surprising combination...with a pinch of extreme geniality and creativity.

"Mendresca de bonito asada con cebolla, pasta y semillas de guidilla": a star! fresh out of the sea cooked with precision, detail, care...so lonely in the dish. But do we really need someone else to share the spotlight? Absolutely not.



"Texturas de pescado de bajura" (picture below): it is not fair to come after the bonito. Below expectations but still on the top of the world.

"Costra del asado de cordero con algarrobo y pipas de girasol majadas": after the star, the first of two solists. Excellent the crust topped with the seeds, the interior once again cooked to perfection, with precision and detail. Top notch.

"Pieza de vacuno asada, emulsión de carne y cristales de sal" (picture below): the other solist. Solitary in the slate, pink, full of flavour, tender and then the emulsion...what a perfect way to end the mains.



"Nueces rotas, tostadas e saladas, crema helada de leche de cabra y gelatina de Armagnac" (picture below): the richness of the Armagnac gelatined hidden in the shockingly "nuts" all of them "bent" over the smooth goat milk ice cream. One of the best ever desserts...



"Corte de helado al whisky" (right picture): once again the problem of being served after a masterpiece.

"Cucurucho de flores e cravos"(left picture): creative idea, perfect execution, but not a "must".

And just like that the voyage to the fabulous world of Anduriz ends...

"Los enunciados de los platos no solamente describen aquello de lo que se componen, sino que también llevan implícito aquello que desearíamos que hubiese...paisajes y momentos evocadores, técnicas imaginárias e incluso ingredientes nuevos" in Mugaritz' menu.


Wine list: N/A
We did not have the chance to look at it. We asked for the wine pairing and the choices were wise, correct and inexpensive. From Germany to France, ending in Spain we wandered through our voyage with fresh and enjoyable aromas.

Wine sampled: (i) Rudesheim Estate 07 (Rheingau, Georg Beuer); (ii) Ekam 09 (Costers del Segre, Castel d'Encus); (iii) Les Galets 10 (Juracon Sec, Clos Benguères); (iv) La Calma 07 (Penedès, Can Ràfols del Caus); (v) Las Gravas (Jumilla, Casa Castillo); and (vi) PX de Añada 08 (Montilla Moriles, Alvear).

Genre: Modern/Creative/Basque

Price: €220/person

Michelin: ** (2011: 3rd S. Pellegrino World's best restaurant)

Date of visit: Summer 2011

Overall: 19/20

Pros: Creativity, service, food, ambience, the experience.

Cons: None, except if you do not like modern and experimentalist food.

Mugaritz
Aldura Aldea 20-Otzazulueta Baserria 
E - 20100 Errenteria
Tel: (+34) 943 522 455
Tel: (+34) 943518343
Fax: (+34) 943 518 216
http://http://www.mugaritz.com/

Arbutus (London) * - HE

Arbutus is a quite, simply decorated and cozy restaurant in the heart of Soho in London that opened in May 2006, a brainchild of Anthony Demetre and Will Smith. Arbutus earned a Michelin star in January 2007.

Service: 15/20
The service is attentive and informal (as much as it can be) and can be characterized by the availability and sympathy of its staff.

Restaurant décor and ambience: 13/20
Arbutus expands through a comfortable but small dining area with simple white, brown and black décor. The place is relatively quiet although there is not much privacy due to the room layout.

Food: 14/20
Arbutus uses mainly good quality inexpensive UK ingredients in a mix of a local and French cuisine. The food is above the average established and sometimes "renown" restaurants in the London scene, but still has a lot to improve in terms of quality, creativity and flavour for a Michelin-starred restaurant.

I started with the "squid and mackerel ‘burger’, parsley, razor clams, sea purslane", which was nicely done, a comfortable mixture of flavours and textures, but it lacked a "pinch" of flavour and magic.
(§)

The plaice with swiss chard was savoury but too dry, top notch for the swiss chard garnish that saved the main.
(§)

The chocolate dessert was the best memory of the day, in particular, for chocolate addicts.
(§)

Food was reasonably and unpretentiously presented.



Wine list: 12/20
A limited and pricy list. It should be mentioned however that the whole wine list can be bought by the 250ml carafe and allows you to pair different wine with your meal.

Genre: UK/French Cuisine

Price: GBP45-60/person

Michelin: *

Date of visit: Autumn 2010

Overall: 13/20

Pros: Attentive and informal service, price-quality relationship for a Michelin-starred restaurant, the carafe system.

Cons: Food has still room for improvement, room layout.


Arbutus
63 — 64 Frith Street
London
W1D 3JW
Tel: 020 7734 4545
Fax: 020 7287 8624
http://http://www.arbutusrestaurant.co.uk/

(§) Special thanks for the photos to www.hungryinlondon.com; www.gooeycheese.wordpress.com and www.mayfairw1.exblog.jp.

Akelarre (San Sebastian) *** - HE

Akelarre is a three Michelin star restaurant by Pedro Subijana well known for its modern and creative Basque cuisine located on top of Monte Igueldo in San Sebastián with a breathtaking view. Pedro Subijana is one of the all time greatest Spanish chefs and considered along with Juan Mari Arzak one of the "fathers" of the nouvelle cuisine in Spain.

Service: 13/20
Service to our table was good, correct, generally informal and coordinated.

However, it is a shame that in a restaurant at this level a waitress, serving a table of two, spills the contents of a sauce boat on the floor (it happens, we are human) and serves the two dishes with the contents of only one sauce boat (compromising the kitchen's work) - all of this in front of the entire dining room. There was also a couple of times that the food came out of the kitchen and sat on the dining room waiting for another waiter to pick it up and serve it to the table, this slowness has or could have jeopardized the quality of the food. One feels also deceived when food critics in a table nearby receives special treatment (e.g. eating the same menu with better quality ingredients).

Restaurant décor and ambience: 15/20
Once we got out of the car and inspected the restaurant's surroundings, we felt immediately inebriated by the sounds and scents of the nature, but when we thought this could hardly get any better we were astonished with the incredibly breathtaking view of Akelarre's dining room...(the sky entirely engulfed by the sea's infinitude). This was promising if it was not for the Akelarre's "reception/reservation/services" desk being situated inside the dining room (close to the tables with phone calls being constantly made and received), as well as the front of house staff's gatherings in the dining room when the restaurant was still quiet. How can this take place in three-starred Michelin restaurant with four forks and knives?

Food: 17.5/20  
Having visited Arzak and Mugartiz on the same week one may be tempted to not feel overwhelmed by the quality, creativity and geniality of the food, this was clearly not the case. Pedro Subijana is one of Spain's all time greatest Chefs and this is truly evidenced by the mixture of textures, unexpected combinations of ingredients, impressive variation of flavours and exhaustively detailed presentation. My wife and I decided to each try one of the two available tasting menus - Aranory and Bekarki - to share a comprehensive experience of Subijana's culinary art. We were both greeted with an unusual medicine kit as aperitifs, it is always a great start when the artists try to make things different and think and execute out of the box, remarkable the "Gel", the "Esponja" and the "Sales" (right picture).

Into the menus, the "Moluscos en la Red del Pescador" (left picture) is not to be missed if you love the fresh fish and seafood with a touch of magic.

The "Xangurro en Esencia sobre Blini de su Coral y Gurullos" is also the evidence of the quality of Basque's seafood and what a great Chef can make with it. If the fish and the seafood were almost always present in every dish that came out of the kitchen, the "Cordero a la Brasa con Posos del Vino" (right picture) rare, perfectly cooked, the savoury sauce and the crunchy and unexpected garnish makes this a dish of another world.

However, the star of the day was indisputably the "Foie Fresco a la sárten com Escamas de Sal y Pimenta y Grano" (left picture), the texture and tenderness of the foie, so simple and luscious, with the "sal y pimenta".

The desserts, all of them incredible, starting with the sublime hômage to melocóton with the "Flor the Melocóton" (three different ways to present the melocóton) (right picture), going to the beautifully presented "Leche y Uva, Queso y Vino en Evolución Paralela", followed by the textures of the "Xaxu com Helado Espumoso de Coco" and finally the extraordinary "Otra Tarta de Manzana" (have you ever eaten paper?) (picture below).

On the negative side: the dry "Salmonete Integral com "Fusili" de Salsas", the three bones in the "Rodaballo con su Kokotxa" (but to be fair the rodoballo was perfectly cooked and the dish reveals immense creativity) and the strange gelatin-textured "Navaja con Pata de Ternera" (not our favourite, personally speaking).

Wine list: 17.5/20
Complete wine list with great incidence on national wines. We have asked the sommelier to choose the wines to go with menus, good and inexpensive choices by the glass (inexpensive means they are not the best quality wines, but extremely pleasant).

Genre: Modern/Creative

Price: €180/person

Michelin: *** (2011: 94th S. Pellegrino World's best restaurant)

Date of visit: Summer 2011

Overall: 17/20

Pros: food quality, presentation and creativity, the restaurant and its surroundings, the foie, the cordero and the fresh fish and seafood.

Cons: The reception desk in the middle of the dining room, the errors by the front of house, the dry salmonete and the rodoballo's bones.

Akelarre
Paseo Padre Orcolaga, 56
20008 San Sebastián
Tel.: +34 943 311209
E-mail: restaurante@akelarre.net
http://http://www.akelarre.net/