17 September 2012
26 August 2012
Asador Extebarri (Atxondo- Bizkaia)* - HE
Lost in a small magical village in the Basque country, you will find a rustic stone country house, inside a typical and simple decoration. This is a reflection of Extebarri's food...translating what someone once said "best things in life are simple".
I do not know if I will be able to be completely fair to Extebarri in this review as this visit followed our travel through the wonders of the Roca brother's universe. Our mind was still trying to find our way back to the real world (already in the middle of the naked nature and green mountains of the Basque country) when we arrived at Plaza San Juan in Atxondo.
Service: 16/20
Simplicity makes a perfect combination with great hospitality. At Extebarri, you are not sitting at a restaurant, you are invited by the owners of the restaurant to their "home" to share a family meal. Do not expect formal service or silver cutlery, but a proud and impeccable treatment.
Ambiance and décor: 12/20
It is a shame that the breathtaking view and intense daylight is hidden behind Extebarri's small windows.The resturant is in a rustic and typical stone country house with some incoherent decoration. I believe the Michelin star has "forced" its owners to make some changes to the place...the decoration now is a schizophrenic mix of a traditional country restaurant and a "chic" establishment. Why not keep it simple, traditional and faithful to its origins?
This restaurant is famous for its wonderfully simple and smokey food. We had a tasting menu and few dishes picked from the "à la carte" menu to share. Overall I would say that it is really worth visiting Extebarri, but I recommend to choose a few dishes à la carte and share (avoid the tasting menu - which looks a thing for the tourists - and is incredible expensive and contains a few unpleasant surprises).
From the dishes we tried, we definitely recommend the "Gambas Palamos" buttery and meaty large prawns, with sea and smokey aroma and flavourful heads (photo above). The "Foie" extremely smooth in a classical contrast with a sweet fruit jam The "Cod" cooked to perfection with peppers, spinach and onions (photo left). Finally, the "Chuletón", probably the best I ever had, the meat was rare but not chewy, well grilled on the outside (photo below).
However, there were a few dishes that should not have come out of the kitchen. Had not been for these and the 17 mark for "Food" would probably had been different. The "peas with eggs and mushroom carpaccio", the carpaccion shows a great technique from the cooks, but the whole dish is unbalanced and the experience a major let down. The same for both desserts "Milk ice-cream with berries infusion" (the berries were sour and completed well the milk ice-cream, which tasted awkardly smokey...not good, at least for me) and the "biscuit with vanilla ice-cream" (ice-cream again, better this time, but all the mixture was full of alcohol, soggy and unpleaseant).
Other that these, a few remarkable but not outstanding dishes such as the barnacles (the largest I have ever seen), the mozzarella or the anchovies.
Overall: 16/20
Pros: service, simplicity and quality of the food, the place
Cons: the décor, price
Asador Extebarri
Plaza San Juan, 1
48291 Atxondo-Bizkaya
www.asadorextebarri.com
Genre: Grilled specialities
Price: Tasting Menu no drinks included (€120); à la carte average dish price (€25-€40)
Michelin: 1* (2012: 31st S. Pellegrino world's best restaurants)
Date of visit: Spring 2012
ELJ APO NÉS (Barcelona)
A trendy, energizing but with trivial food Japanese restaurant in Barcelona.
Service: 13/20
Not good, not bad...passable.
Ambiance and décor: 17/20The strenght of this restaurant is without doubt is good vibe, energizing mood, fashionable guests and vanguardist decoration.
Food: 11,5/20The food is the same as so many other low-medium ranked Japanese restaurants all over the world. The food is not creative and in terms of flavour is not certainly brilliant. Food is just: fine.
Overall: 13/20
Pros: Mood and decoration
Cons: Food
ELJ APO NÉS
Pasaje de la Concepción, 5, 08008, Barcelona, Spain
http://www.grupotragaluz.com/rest-eljapones.php
Genre: Japanese/Fusion
Price: Approx. €25/person
Michelin: N.A.
St. Pellegrino World's Best Restaurants: N.A:
Date of visit: Summer 2012
Service: 13/20
Not good, not bad...passable.
Ambiance and décor: 17/20The strenght of this restaurant is without doubt is good vibe, energizing mood, fashionable guests and vanguardist decoration.
Food: 11,5/20The food is the same as so many other low-medium ranked Japanese restaurants all over the world. The food is not creative and in terms of flavour is not certainly brilliant. Food is just: fine.
Overall: 13/20
Pros: Mood and decoration
Cons: Food
ELJ APO NÉS
Pasaje de la Concepción, 5, 08008, Barcelona, Spain
http://www.grupotragaluz.com/rest-eljapones.php
Genre: Japanese/Fusion
Price: Approx. €25/person
Michelin: N.A.
St. Pellegrino World's Best Restaurants: N.A:
Date of visit: Summer 2012
Ávalon by Ramón Freixa (Barcelona)
Located in the bowels of Via Laeitana in Barcelona, Ávalon is a trendy, informal and pleasant restaurant by Ramón Freixa in Barcelona.
Service: 13,5/20
The waiters were nice, but the service was overall slow, not attentive and clumsy (and the restaurant was not even half full).
Ambiance and décor: 17/20
Trendy and well decorated. With a more skillful kitchen, energy and ambiance and the place would definitely be a "must go" in Barcelona. As this is not the case, it is only another not-so-fantastic-restaurant sponsored by a well known Spanish chef.
Food: 14/20
The tapas were modern, but not completely unfaithful interpretations of Spanish classical dishes, such as patatas bravas ("Las bravas del Ávalon"), croquetas ("croquetas de asado"), pan tomaca ("coca de cristal con tomate") and the "canelones gratinados de tres carnes". These were all great, nothing exquisite or complex, but simple and well executed small dishes.
The mains: that is what I call a disaster. My "Arroz meloso con sepia y butifarra", the squid and rice is a great combination but undoubtedly without the addition of butifarra that made the dish so much more intense and unbalanced, where the fat and meat flavour completely overcame the sea flavour of the squids. The "Atún con coca fina de “recapte” al carbon vejetal" and the "Hamburguesa de pato con helado de mostaza" were also quite mediocre, despite the catchy and appealing name of both dishes.
Overall: 14/20
Pros: Reasonable price for tapas in a trendy place, access to the Skybar on the top of the hotel
Cons: Food inconsistency, service
Ávalon by Ramón Freixa
Via Laeitana, 30, Barcelona, Spain
http://www.grandhotelcentral.com
Genre: Modern Spanish Tapas
Price: Approx. €25/person
Michelin: N.A.
St. Pellegrino World's Best Restaurants: N.A:
Date of visit: Summer 2012
Service: 13,5/20
The waiters were nice, but the service was overall slow, not attentive and clumsy (and the restaurant was not even half full).
Ambiance and décor: 17/20
Trendy and well decorated. With a more skillful kitchen, energy and ambiance and the place would definitely be a "must go" in Barcelona. As this is not the case, it is only another not-so-fantastic-restaurant sponsored by a well known Spanish chef.
Food: 14/20
The worst thing you can find in a restaurant is inconsistency in food, in particular, in a place orientated by a reference of the Spanish cuisine. Our dinner had to two different parts: (i) the tapas - best part - and (ii) the mains - a tragedy.
Overall: 14/20
Pros: Reasonable price for tapas in a trendy place, access to the Skybar on the top of the hotel
Cons: Food inconsistency, service
Ávalon by Ramón Freixa
Via Laeitana, 30, Barcelona, Spain
http://www.grandhotelcentral.com
Genre: Modern Spanish Tapas
Price: Approx. €25/person
Michelin: N.A.
St. Pellegrino World's Best Restaurants: N.A:
Date of visit: Summer 2012
The Fat Duck (Bray)*** - HE - TO BE UPDATED
Service: 17,5/20
Ambiance and décor: 18,5/20
Food: 19/20
Overall: 19/20
The Fat Duck
High Street Bray, Berkshire, UK
http://www.thefatduck.co.uk
Genre: Modern International
Price: Approx. €250 (no drinks included)/person
Michelin: ***
St. Pellegrino World's Best Restaurants: 5 (2011)
Date of visit: Spring 2011
Quique Dacosta (Denia)** - HE - TO BE UPDATED
Service: 18/20
Ambiance and décor: 18,5/20
Food: 18,5/20
Overall: 18,5/20
Quique Dacosta
Ctra. Las Marinas, Km. 3, 03700 Denia, Spain
http://www.quiquedacosta.es
Genre: Modern Spanish/International
Price: €150 + VAT (season menu), €125 + VAT ("best of" menu), €85 wine pairing (all values per person)
Michelin: **
St. Pellegrino World's Best Restaurants: 40
Date of visit: Summer 2012
Ambiance and décor: 18,5/20
Food: 18,5/20
Overall: 18,5/20
Quique Dacosta
Ctra. Las Marinas, Km. 3, 03700 Denia, Spain
http://www.quiquedacosta.es
Genre: Modern Spanish/International
Price: €150 + VAT (season menu), €125 + VAT ("best of" menu), €85 wine pairing (all values per person)
Michelin: **
St. Pellegrino World's Best Restaurants: 40
Date of visit: Summer 2012
El Celler de Can Roca (Girona)*** - HE
There is no such thing as the best restaurant in the world, pursuant to the same rationale there cannot be a second one. St. Pellegrino's classification is polemic and based on personal experiences and preferences that most certainly have gone to many different restaurants during their life, but probably not enough to positively state that one is the best in the world. The restaurants change every year (if not every month) and nobody could ever experiment all the best in only one year (well, maybe some people can, but it is highly unlikely). Finally, there are also personal considerations and everyday mood that influence each review...and so many other factors that impact on each evaluator opinion.
Having said this and taking into account that I have only been to a handful of top restaurants in the world, I can understand the reason why El Celler was considered the second best in the world and is a fair holder of 3 Michelin stars.
In the centre of Girona in a discrete house is located the magnificent Roca brothers' food temple. Josep, Joan and Jordi, the triple Js Rocas, run a machine so close to perfection that seems impossible. The service, the communication between the kitchen and front of house, the creativeness and excellence present in each dish and the cheerful enthusiasm with which the brothers welcome you to their "home"...
Other than that, Michel Roux, the famous chef of Le Gavroche in London, was the main guest for this mid-week lunch and sitting right next to us savoured his experience with appetite and we could sense a positive sign of envy and admiration for his fellow hosts.
Service: 19/20
When you say 19/20 it says everything.
Notwithstanding here are a few remarks to justify the 19. Precision on the coordination between the kitchen and the front of house, perfect timing, sensible judgement when approaching the table with a pleasant informality but tremendous competence and attentiveness. On top of that, the reception and regular visits to the table from the charming and entertaining Josep Roca, the somellier brother.
Ambiance and décor: 18/20
It is a high end restaurant and therefore it is not uncommon that you hear people whispering instead of talking normally. Apart from this you could perfectly be sitting in a trendy and informal place that you would not notice. From the outside and after passing through Girona, you would not believe the beauty of the inside. The entrance to a yard with plenty of colours and flowers elegantly decorating the old façade of the building, a modern looking building lay right next to it. In the middle of the year, comfortable chairs and tables invite us for an aperitif and an ending cigar with digestive.
After invited to see the kitchen, located in the old building, by Josep we meet his brother, Joan, the head chef. Jordi, the pastry creative genious, was not around. The kitchen half traditional, half laboratory, is the dream of every wannabe chef.
The rest of the restaurant is smooth and tranquilizing in clean white, light brown and transparent with an indoor garden.
Food: 19,5/20
Magic, creativity, quality, consistency, perfection, textures and colours, multi sensorial are just a few words to qualify the Roca brothers' state of the art cuisine.
It is hard to tell how many dishes and non-dishes edible "things" came to the table, in my head there would only be a blur image of extraordinary colourful ingredients, in awkward harmonious combinations, from solid to liquid, hot and cold, if not for the pictures taken during the lunch.
Two different menus are offered to the guests. We opted for the Menú Festival, the longest and more complete, to enjoy a relaxed, pleasant and long afternoon in El Celler (6:30 hours).
There was not any let down during our lunch, but as individuals we all have our preferences and amongst all the dishes that we had the opportunity to taste here are a few that deserve an extra mark for excellency: 
(ii) the espárragos blancos con consomé de ibéricos (a comfortable combination with a fresh image);
(iii) toda la gamba (how to eat a whole Denia prawn? ask Joan, incredible technical work behind such a simple dish, the buttery and meaty prawn dissolved itself with the touch of the knife, the legs cracked in the mouth...);
(v) bacalao en brandada (with, among other things, cod foam, gut stew, olive oil, with scallions with honey and thyme...delicious, complex, deeply satisfying);
(vi) cochinillo ibérico en blanqueta al riesling (with mango terrine, beetroot, melon, beetroot pure, black garlic, onion and orange - a palette of colours and array of sensations...and the crispiness of the cochinillo); 
(vii) mollejas y ventresca de cordero a la brasa con setas de primavera (it is odd this dish, but incredibly linked together with a complex sauce and the setas, it came to the table with a lid and a wonderful aroma spread into the air, the meat impeccably cooked, spot on!); 
(ix) flower bomb (just look at the picture! It was by far the most extraordinary dessert I have eaten all my life.)
(x) and the desserts cart...
These dishes were from another world, the others were "only" perfect. For ease of reference, the pictures of the dishes above are displayed from top to bottom in accordance with the list and description above.
Overall: 19,5/20
Pros: Everything, service, ambiance, décor, food, the Rocas,...
Cons: maybe the traditionalists won't like it or understand this form of art.
El Celler de Can Roca
Calle de Can Suyer, 48, 17007, Girona, Spain
http://www.cellercanroca.com
Price: €160 (Menú Festival) Wine pairing (€75)
Michelin: ***
St. Pellegrino World's Best Restaurants: 2nd (2012)
Date of visit: Spring 2012
Goizeku (Madrid) - HE
A modern Basque cuisine restaurant at one of the most charismatic hotels in Madrid. Despite being highly recommended by several friends and having tasted some exquisite and memorable food, the experience was overall (only) satisfactory.
Service - 13/20
Nice, but too serious and clumsy.
Ambiance and décor - 15/20
White cloth, professional looking waiters, but a contrasting relaxed response from the diners.
Food - 14,5/20
Some very exquisite and cooked to perfection food, such as the Jarrete de ternera blanca lacado con puré trufado de patata, but also some trivial and not so well executed dishes (e.g. Ventresca de bonito del norte encebollada or the Esponjoso de chocolate, crema de café y helado de Bailey´s).
Inconsistency is one of the greatest threats to the reputation of a restaurant...and Goizeku a victim.
Overall - 14/20
Pros: Decide well and you will have a wonderful dinner, good to take a client for dinner
Cons: Food inconsistency, unprofessional service, expensive
Goizeku
Calle Villanueva, 34, 28001, Madrid
http://www.goizekogaztelupe.com
Genre: Modern Basque cuisine
Price: Approx. 60€ (à la carte and no drinks included)/person
Michelin: N.A.
Date of visit: Summer 2012
Service - 13/20
Nice, but too serious and clumsy.
Ambiance and décor - 15/20
White cloth, professional looking waiters, but a contrasting relaxed response from the diners.
Food - 14,5/20
Some very exquisite and cooked to perfection food, such as the Jarrete de ternera blanca lacado con puré trufado de patata, but also some trivial and not so well executed dishes (e.g. Ventresca de bonito del norte encebollada or the Esponjoso de chocolate, crema de café y helado de Bailey´s).
Inconsistency is one of the greatest threats to the reputation of a restaurant...and Goizeku a victim.
Overall - 14/20
Pros: Decide well and you will have a wonderful dinner, good to take a client for dinner
Cons: Food inconsistency, unprofessional service, expensive
Goizeku
Calle Villanueva, 34, 28001, Madrid
http://www.goizekogaztelupe.com
Genre: Modern Basque cuisine
Price: Approx. 60€ (à la carte and no drinks included)/person
Michelin: N.A.
Date of visit: Summer 2012
27 April 2012
Loidi (Barcelona)
The most unexpected surprise of Barcelona was this trendy bistrot supervised by Martin Berasategui located at Calle Mallorca right across his main establishment in Barcelona, Lasarte. It was like being raised from the dead (after the lunch at Sauc) a swift trip from hell to heaven...
Service: 17/20
Quick, efficient, great coordination and communication amongst all staff members (front of house and kitchen brigade). It is not a classical service and it is not supposed to be. I was extremely happy with the service excellence and availability.
Ambience and décor: 14/20
Minor changes in the room decoration could take this bistro to another level, the excess of light and poor decoration make this restaurant look like a classic 3 star NH Hotel's restaurant...and this is definitely not the case.
Food: 16/20
This is an unpretentious restaurant with phenomenal, simple and perfectly cooked food. The bistro is not at the level of other high-end restaurants with a classification of 16 in this blog, but is surely one of the best non "HE" restaurants reviewed so far in this blog. Having said this, this is certainly one of the best value for money options I have ever had the opportunity to try.
A special menu was drawn up for this San Jordi's evening composed of 4 dishes.
Ham Croquetas - this is how a croqueta should be! (16/20)
Bolets ravioli with foie and jamon - perfect harmony of elements and complementing flavours, a perfectly cooked ravioli with foie and bolets) with jamon on top and an intense, thick and complex sauce (17/20).
Cod fish rolled in bacon, spinach parmetier and pinetree oil and pinetrees, once again wonderful combination of flavours and the different textures took this dish to another level (16/20).
Mille-feuilles with two kinds of apples - the mille-feuille was dry and had no filling, contrasting with the dehydrated apple and cooked apple with vanilla seeds on top of it. It was from far the least good dish of the night, but still a good performer (13.5/20).
As petit fours a cold red fruits infusion and a correct chocolate truffle (14/20).
Genre: Catalan/International
Price: €27 plus drinks
Michelin: N.A.
Date of visit: Spring 2012
Overall: 15.5/20
Pros: a great place to have dinner with a group of friends, simple and quality food, efficient and swift service
Cons: decór, minor inconsistencies
Loidi
Hotel Condes, Mallorca 259, Barcelona
www.condesdebarcelona.com/en/loidi
Service: 17/20
Quick, efficient, great coordination and communication amongst all staff members (front of house and kitchen brigade). It is not a classical service and it is not supposed to be. I was extremely happy with the service excellence and availability.
Ambience and décor: 14/20
Minor changes in the room decoration could take this bistro to another level, the excess of light and poor decoration make this restaurant look like a classic 3 star NH Hotel's restaurant...and this is definitely not the case.
Food: 16/20
This is an unpretentious restaurant with phenomenal, simple and perfectly cooked food. The bistro is not at the level of other high-end restaurants with a classification of 16 in this blog, but is surely one of the best non "HE" restaurants reviewed so far in this blog. Having said this, this is certainly one of the best value for money options I have ever had the opportunity to try.
A special menu was drawn up for this San Jordi's evening composed of 4 dishes.
Bolets ravioli with foie and jamon - perfect harmony of elements and complementing flavours, a perfectly cooked ravioli with foie and bolets) with jamon on top and an intense, thick and complex sauce (17/20).Cod fish rolled in bacon, spinach parmetier and pinetree oil and pinetrees, once again wonderful combination of flavours and the different textures took this dish to another level (16/20).
Mille-feuilles with two kinds of apples - the mille-feuille was dry and had no filling, contrasting with the dehydrated apple and cooked apple with vanilla seeds on top of it. It was from far the least good dish of the night, but still a good performer (13.5/20). 
As petit fours a cold red fruits infusion and a correct chocolate truffle (14/20).
Genre: Catalan/International
Price: €27 plus drinks
Michelin: N.A.
Date of visit: Spring 2012
Overall: 15.5/20
Pros: a great place to have dinner with a group of friends, simple and quality food, efficient and swift service
Cons: decór, minor inconsistencies
Loidi
Hotel Condes, Mallorca 259, Barcelona
www.condesdebarcelona.com/en/loidi
Saüc (Barcelona)* - HE
At the new trendy Hotel Ohla at Via Laeitana lays Saü c with an avant-guarde decor in simple line gray and white tight space. Xavier Franco runs the kitchen we went for a quiet quick lunch and the midday menu, an economic option only available at lunch time.
Service: 9/20
To be nice is not enough, it is necessary to be available, rigorous, attentive to the detail and clients, focus and low profile. A three waitress staff for almost a full house is unacceptable at this level, the loud talking amongst waitresses and noisy space also did not help. Waitresses more than once forgot the elements of each dish when presenting them to the table when they did not simply dropped the dishes on the table and left without saying a word.
Ambiance and décor: 14/20
Noisy and tight with no direct natural light. However, the restaurant is modernly decorated with simplicity and elegantly illuminated.
Food: 12.5/20
One day for El Celler and I felt the anxiety slowly taking over me, after having breakfast at The Boqueria we discussed where should we have lunch. Tickets was our main target, but was closed, Alkimia was full so we decided to try the economic lunch menu at Saüc. As soon as the first dish was served we started to regret it...
The lunch menu was composed of some abuse bouches (olives and some fried and dehydrated vegetables), a starter, a first dish, a main (fish or meat) and a dessert.
The starter was a painful and never ending sardine and grapefruit salad with a toast and ajo (a garlic and almond "gazpacho"). The harmony and proportions of each element of the dish were non existent, the flavours mixed up and the ajo was grainy and should have been passed through a musseline (9/20).
Slow cooked egg with potato and grilled artichoke. The egg and artichoke were well cooked but the potatoes burned. Was this dish perfectly executed? Was there any geniality or creativity? Was this dish extremely difficult to execute? The answer to all these questions is not (11/20).
Finally a beautiful piece of veal cooked to perfection medium/rare with a puree of aubergine and capsicum. That is more likely, but still is was not far beyond the minimum expected for a Michelin restaurant (14/20).
The dessert was a palatable mille-feuille with a great strawberry sorbet (14.5/20).
Genre: Modern Catalan cuisine
Price: €37 (person and no wine included)
Michelin: *
Date of visit: Spring 2012
Overall: 12.5/20
Pros: décor, the veal and the sorbet
Cons: If you want to serve an economic menu at a Michelin starred restaurant you have to do it right, much better than this. Use less expensive ingredients and be creative, it does not take much to create impressive dishes with day-to-day affordable ingredients.
Saü c
Hotel Ohla, Via Laeitana 49, Barcelona
www.saucrestaurant.com
Service: 9/20
To be nice is not enough, it is necessary to be available, rigorous, attentive to the detail and clients, focus and low profile. A three waitress staff for almost a full house is unacceptable at this level, the loud talking amongst waitresses and noisy space also did not help. Waitresses more than once forgot the elements of each dish when presenting them to the table when they did not simply dropped the dishes on the table and left without saying a word.
Ambiance and décor: 14/20
Noisy and tight with no direct natural light. However, the restaurant is modernly decorated with simplicity and elegantly illuminated.
Food: 12.5/20
One day for El Celler and I felt the anxiety slowly taking over me, after having breakfast at The Boqueria we discussed where should we have lunch. Tickets was our main target, but was closed, Alkimia was full so we decided to try the economic lunch menu at Sa
The lunch menu was composed of some abuse bouches (olives and some fried and dehydrated vegetables), a starter, a first dish, a main (fish or meat) and a dessert.
The starter was a painful and never ending sardine and grapefruit salad with a toast and ajo (a garlic and almond "gazpacho"). The harmony and proportions of each element of the dish were non existent, the flavours mixed up and the ajo was grainy and should have been passed through a musseline (9/20).
Slow cooked egg with potato and grilled artichoke. The egg and artichoke were well cooked but the potatoes burned. Was this dish perfectly executed? Was there any geniality or creativity? Was this dish extremely difficult to execute? The answer to all these questions is not (11/20).
Finally a beautiful piece of veal cooked to perfection medium/rare with a puree of aubergine and capsicum. That is more likely, but still is was not far beyond the minimum expected for a Michelin restaurant (14/20).The dessert was a palatable mille-feuille with a great strawberry sorbet (14.5/20).
Genre: Modern Catalan cuisine
Price: €37 (person and no wine included)
Michelin: *
Date of visit: Spring 2012
Overall: 12.5/20
Pros: décor, the veal and the sorbet
Cons: If you want to serve an economic menu at a Michelin starred restaurant you have to do it right, much better than this. Use less expensive ingredients and be creative, it does not take much to create impressive dishes with day-to-day affordable ingredients.
Sa
Hotel Ohla, Via Laeitana 49, Barcelona
www.saucrestaurant.com
23 April 2012
Miscellaneous I - Portugal
Here are some more reviews of other restaurants located in Portugal that I had the opportunity to visit recently but unfortunately do not have detailed notes to make a full post in respect of each of them.
Alma (Lisbon) - HE
A surprising restaurant by young celebrity chef Henrique Sá Pessoa. A personalised and modern approach to Portuguese traditional cuisine based on fresh products made in Portugal.
Service: 14/20
Ambiance and décor: 15/20
Food: 14/20
Overall: 14/20
www.alma.co.pt
Assinatura (Lisbon) - HE
A personal favourite with a creative approach to Portuguese cuisine. Flavour, textures with simplicity and detail. Great service.
Service: 15/20
Ambiance and décor: 13/20
Food: 14.5/20
Overall: 14.5/20
www.assinatura.com.pt
Belcanto (Lisbon) - HE
The new high-end enterprise of Portuguese awarded chef José Avillez. A trendy but noisy place with great creative food. There is still a great room to improve in particular in respect of the service, however is in a strong position to be awarded a Michelin star in the next couple of years.
Service: 12/20
Ambiance and décor: 15,5/20
Food: 16/20
Overall: 15.5/20
www.belcanto.pt
Bocca (Lisbon) - HE
Probably one of the most overrated restaurants in Lisbon. Mistakes haute cuisine with minimal dishes, full of colourful elements and no harmony. The service is bad and not flexible. A few visits to high-end restaurants in town would be recommended to the brigade of cooks and front of house.
Service: 8/20
Ambiance and décor: 15/20
Food: 9.5/20
Overall: 9.5/20
www.bocca.pt
O Cantinho do Avillez (Lisbon)
It is supposed to be a restaurant for gathering friends, with a trendy ambiance and simple dishes inspired by Avillez's voyages.
Service: 12/20
Ambiance and décor: 15/20
Food: 14/20
Overal: 13.5/20
www.cantinhodoavillez.pt
Feitoria (Lisbon)* - HE
Also one of my personal favourites and has been awarded with a Michelin star in the red book's 2012 edition. Great Service, ambiance and quality food.
Service: 16.5/20
Ambiance and décor: 16.5/20
Food: 15.5/20
Overall: 15.5/20
www.restaurantefeitoria.com
La Finestra (Lisbon) and Lucca (Lisbon)
Looking for the best pizzas in town? Go to one of these two restaurants owned by Carlos Sousa and expect nothing less than efficient service, excellent quality Italian products and phenomenal pizzas. New establishment from the same owner expected to open early May in Algés.
Service: 17/20
Ambiance and décor: 12/20
Food (pizzas): 18.5/20
Overall: 17/20
www.lafinestra.pt
www.pizzerialucca.com
Manifesto (Lisbon) - HE
Being Blumenthal or Adriá is not for everyone and playing with nitrogen, algin, dry ice and syphons will not make your restaurant an absolute success if it lacks a good service, ambiance and the flavours, the textures and the harmony. A poor effort by Portuguese chefe Luís Baena with a terrible service.
Service: 7/20
Ambiance and décor: 13.5/20
Food: 8/20
Overall: 8/20
www.restaurantemanifesto.com
O Magano (Lisbon)
Phenomenal tradtional Poortuguese food at the heart of Lisbon. Definitively worth trying!
Service: 14/20
Ambiance and décor: 14/20
Food: 15/20
Overall: 15/20
www.omagano.com
Na Ordem com...Luís Suspiro (Lisbon) - HE
A modern approach to Portuguese cuisine and products by Portuguese acclaimed chefe Luís Suspiro.
Service: 15/20
Ambiance and décor: 13/20
Food: 13/20
Overall: 13/20
www.naordemcomluissuspiro.com
Pedro e o Lobo (Lisbon) - HE
Two young, brilliant and creative chefs with Michelin background experience but with a long way to reach maturity. More consistency and the same geniality, concept and ambition will make this restaurant a firm reference in the Portuguese avant-guarde cuisine scene.
Service: 15/20
Ambience and décor: 14/20
Food: 14/20
Overall: 14/20
www.pedroeolobo.pt
Ramiro (Lisbon)
The best place in town for seafood and a beer. Simplicity, quality and impeccable service are trademarks of Ramiro.
Service: 17/20
Ambiance and decor: 10/20
Food: 16.5
Overall: 16.5/20
Spazio Boundi / Nobre (Lisbon) -HE
Traditional Portuguese restaurant with a large menu by acclaimed and celebrity chef Justa Nobre. Good service, great quality but pricey.
Service: 14/20
Ambiance and décor: 13/20
Food: 14/20
Overall: 14/20
www.boundi.pt/spazio_boundi
Alma (Lisbon) - HE
A surprising restaurant by young celebrity chef Henrique Sá Pessoa. A personalised and modern approach to Portuguese traditional cuisine based on fresh products made in Portugal.
Service: 14/20
Ambiance and décor: 15/20
Food: 14/20
Overall: 14/20
www.alma.co.pt
Assinatura (Lisbon) - HE
A personal favourite with a creative approach to Portuguese cuisine. Flavour, textures with simplicity and detail. Great service.
Service: 15/20
Ambiance and décor: 13/20
Food: 14.5/20
Overall: 14.5/20
www.assinatura.com.pt
Belcanto (Lisbon) - HE
The new high-end enterprise of Portuguese awarded chef José Avillez. A trendy but noisy place with great creative food. There is still a great room to improve in particular in respect of the service, however is in a strong position to be awarded a Michelin star in the next couple of years.
Service: 12/20
Ambiance and décor: 15,5/20
Food: 16/20
Overall: 15.5/20
www.belcanto.pt
Bocca (Lisbon) - HE
Probably one of the most overrated restaurants in Lisbon. Mistakes haute cuisine with minimal dishes, full of colourful elements and no harmony. The service is bad and not flexible. A few visits to high-end restaurants in town would be recommended to the brigade of cooks and front of house.
Service: 8/20
Ambiance and décor: 15/20
Food: 9.5/20
Overall: 9.5/20
www.bocca.pt
O Cantinho do Avillez (Lisbon)
It is supposed to be a restaurant for gathering friends, with a trendy ambiance and simple dishes inspired by Avillez's voyages.
Service: 12/20
Ambiance and décor: 15/20
Food: 14/20
Overal: 13.5/20
www.cantinhodoavillez.pt
Feitoria (Lisbon)* - HE
Also one of my personal favourites and has been awarded with a Michelin star in the red book's 2012 edition. Great Service, ambiance and quality food.
Service: 16.5/20
Ambiance and décor: 16.5/20
Food: 15.5/20
Overall: 15.5/20
www.restaurantefeitoria.com
La Finestra (Lisbon) and Lucca (Lisbon)
Looking for the best pizzas in town? Go to one of these two restaurants owned by Carlos Sousa and expect nothing less than efficient service, excellent quality Italian products and phenomenal pizzas. New establishment from the same owner expected to open early May in Algés.
Service: 17/20
Ambiance and décor: 12/20
Food (pizzas): 18.5/20
Overall: 17/20
www.lafinestra.pt
www.pizzerialucca.com
Manifesto (Lisbon) - HE
Being Blumenthal or Adriá is not for everyone and playing with nitrogen, algin, dry ice and syphons will not make your restaurant an absolute success if it lacks a good service, ambiance and the flavours, the textures and the harmony. A poor effort by Portuguese chefe Luís Baena with a terrible service.
Service: 7/20
Ambiance and décor: 13.5/20
Food: 8/20
Overall: 8/20
www.restaurantemanifesto.com
O Magano (Lisbon)
Phenomenal tradtional Poortuguese food at the heart of Lisbon. Definitively worth trying!
Service: 14/20
Ambiance and décor: 14/20
Food: 15/20
Overall: 15/20
www.omagano.com
Na Ordem com...Luís Suspiro (Lisbon) - HE
A modern approach to Portuguese cuisine and products by Portuguese acclaimed chefe Luís Suspiro.
Service: 15/20
Ambiance and décor: 13/20
Food: 13/20
Overall: 13/20
www.naordemcomluissuspiro.com
Pedro e o Lobo (Lisbon) - HE
Two young, brilliant and creative chefs with Michelin background experience but with a long way to reach maturity. More consistency and the same geniality, concept and ambition will make this restaurant a firm reference in the Portuguese avant-guarde cuisine scene.
Service: 15/20
Ambience and décor: 14/20
Food: 14/20
Overall: 14/20
www.pedroeolobo.pt
Ramiro (Lisbon)
The best place in town for seafood and a beer. Simplicity, quality and impeccable service are trademarks of Ramiro.
Service: 17/20
Ambiance and decor: 10/20
Food: 16.5
Overall: 16.5/20
Spazio Boundi / Nobre (Lisbon) -HE
Traditional Portuguese restaurant with a large menu by acclaimed and celebrity chef Justa Nobre. Good service, great quality but pricey.
Service: 14/20
Ambiance and décor: 13/20
Food: 14/20
Overall: 14/20
www.boundi.pt/spazio_boundi
Moo (Barcelona)* - HE
At my first stop this way around, we visited Moo, a restaurant supervised by the Rocas and located inside Hotel Omm at calle Rosellón in Barcelona. Moo is trendy and modern, where creativity plays a major role.
Service: 15/20
You should not expect formalities or classical servicing at Moo, it would not be fit. Instead you have simplicity and friendliness, but with a few mistakes. The coordination between cuisine and front of house seemed fine. A special note to the sommelier, for his enthusiasm and detailed explanation of the history and contents of each wine.
Ambiance and décor: 16/20
The opinions here may vary, Moo is located on the lobby floor of Hotel Omm, after the reception and right next to the hotel's trendy hangout bar. On top of that, such lobby floor is a massive open space with movement, noise, chill-out music in the background. If you don not like it, just forget it, but if you feel like going out on a Saturday night this might be the perfect place to start. There are quite a few tables, some with white cloth, all with different design items with a final good result.
Food: 15/20
It is quite magical to open a large book full of appealing dishes and menus. À la carte and three tasting menus are available (vegetarian, seasonal and Joan Roca), considering that in three days we would be sitting at the real Roca's table, we decided for the Seasonal Menu.
Moo's food is a blend of art, colour, flavours and textures. Each dish is composed of several different elements (some complex with a lot of processes others more simple) with different colours and all kinds of textures. However, it is still at an early stage of maturation, lacking consistency and making some unnecessary "unforced" errors.
Altogether, it is definitely a place worth visiting.
The Seasonal Menu:
The seasonal menu was composed of 2 sets of abuse bouches, 6 dishes (three starters, one fish and one meat dish and a dessert) and petit fours.
The first set of abuse bouches had crispy patatas bravas, a tasty mini olive biscuit, a shrimp tempura (lack of crispiness) and an amazing mussel with edible shell (genius!) - 16/20
The second set of abuse mouches comprised a corn creme with herring roes (good toasty flavour of the creme well balanced with the roes' freshness), a correct mini sandwich of cheese and oxtail and the "grand" flaw of the meal, a vegetables' broth with sesame. It was not the flavour, which was intense and complex, but the fact that mine was completely liquid and my wife's had large chunks of gelatin in it (unforgivable). 13/20
And then they called Fabergé for an inspiring and unforgettable work of art! Ladies and gentlemen I present you the "huevo de oro" (golden egg). A perfect combination of a caramel base, a nest of small bits of cooked sweet potato, a creamy egg yolk with a drop of truffle oil and a magic golden dome covering the egg (which is actually caramel). Huevo de oro has everything a great modern dish should have: intense and distinguishable flavours, an array of textures and an extra pinch of geniality and creativity. Well done, great work! 19/20
The huevo de oro was followed by a mushroom carpaccio with foie. This dish characterises Moo, several elements in the same dish (ones at their natural form others completely "transformed"), complexity, harmony (almost perfect of flavours), different shapes and textures. Heavy hand on salt though. 15.5/20
A perfect caneloni of woodpigeon flew onto the table, perfectly cooked and with intense and strong flavours (woodpigeon, macadamia and truffle oil). Additional points for the creativity. 16/20
An ordinary fried cod with rose pepper, white bean, lentils, carrots and others in a broth. The cod lacked a bit of salt and had no flavour. Easily earned the award of "worst dish of the night". 12/20
Finally the pigeon (pigeon and woodpigeon, despite being different they are both pigeon, why repeat?), cooked to perfection with a comfortable flavour of thyme in air format over an indistinguishable garnish covered with the game's jus. Once again intense flavours and textures. 15.5/20
"Citrics", please! Once again the winning recipe, a lot of citric elements (simple and complex), colours, textures and intense citric flavour. If this was not at the tasting menu I would have never tried this one and would never know what I would had missed. 17.5/20
Petit fours: a poor display for a surprising restaurant. They were very good though.
Genre: International (creative)
Price: €79 (seasonal menu) + €35 (wine pairing)
Michelin: *
Date of visit: Spring 2012
Overall: 16/20
Pros: food, creativity, the friendly and enthusiastic sommelier, the space.
Cons: some inconsistency in the food (vegetable broth or the fried cod fish).
Moo
Hotel Omm, Rosselló 265, Barcelona
www.hotelomm.es/moo
Service: 15/20
You should not expect formalities or classical servicing at Moo, it would not be fit. Instead you have simplicity and friendliness, but with a few mistakes. The coordination between cuisine and front of house seemed fine. A special note to the sommelier, for his enthusiasm and detailed explanation of the history and contents of each wine.
Ambiance and décor: 16/20
The opinions here may vary, Moo is located on the lobby floor of Hotel Omm, after the reception and right next to the hotel's trendy hangout bar. On top of that, such lobby floor is a massive open space with movement, noise, chill-out music in the background. If you don not like it, just forget it, but if you feel like going out on a Saturday night this might be the perfect place to start. There are quite a few tables, some with white cloth, all with different design items with a final good result.
Food: 15/20
It is quite magical to open a large book full of appealing dishes and menus. À la carte and three tasting menus are available (vegetarian, seasonal and Joan Roca), considering that in three days we would be sitting at the real Roca's table, we decided for the Seasonal Menu.
Moo's food is a blend of art, colour, flavours and textures. Each dish is composed of several different elements (some complex with a lot of processes others more simple) with different colours and all kinds of textures. However, it is still at an early stage of maturation, lacking consistency and making some unnecessary "unforced" errors.
Altogether, it is definitely a place worth visiting.
The Seasonal Menu:
The seasonal menu was composed of 2 sets of abuse bouches, 6 dishes (three starters, one fish and one meat dish and a dessert) and petit fours.
The first set of abuse bouches had crispy patatas bravas, a tasty mini olive biscuit, a shrimp tempura (lack of crispiness) and an amazing mussel with edible shell (genius!) - 16/20
The second set of abuse mouches comprised a corn creme with herring roes (good toasty flavour of the creme well balanced with the roes' freshness), a correct mini sandwich of cheese and oxtail and the "grand" flaw of the meal, a vegetables' broth with sesame. It was not the flavour, which was intense and complex, but the fact that mine was completely liquid and my wife's had large chunks of gelatin in it (unforgivable). 13/20
And then they called Fabergé for an inspiring and unforgettable work of art! Ladies and gentlemen I present you the "huevo de oro" (golden egg). A perfect combination of a caramel base, a nest of small bits of cooked sweet potato, a creamy egg yolk with a drop of truffle oil and a magic golden dome covering the egg (which is actually caramel). Huevo de oro has everything a great modern dish should have: intense and distinguishable flavours, an array of textures and an extra pinch of geniality and creativity. Well done, great work! 19/20
The huevo de oro was followed by a mushroom carpaccio with foie. This dish characterises Moo, several elements in the same dish (ones at their natural form others completely "transformed"), complexity, harmony (almost perfect of flavours), different shapes and textures. Heavy hand on salt though. 15.5/20
A perfect caneloni of woodpigeon flew onto the table, perfectly cooked and with intense and strong flavours (woodpigeon, macadamia and truffle oil). Additional points for the creativity. 16/20 An ordinary fried cod with rose pepper, white bean, lentils, carrots and others in a broth. The cod lacked a bit of salt and had no flavour. Easily earned the award of "worst dish of the night". 12/20
Finally the pigeon (pigeon and woodpigeon, despite being different they are both pigeon, why repeat?), cooked to perfection with a comfortable flavour of thyme in air format over an indistinguishable garnish covered with the game's jus. Once again intense flavours and textures. 15.5/20
"Citrics", please! Once again the winning recipe, a lot of citric elements (simple and complex), colours, textures and intense citric flavour. If this was not at the tasting menu I would have never tried this one and would never know what I would had missed. 17.5/20Petit fours: a poor display for a surprising restaurant. They were very good though.
Genre: International (creative)
Price: €79 (seasonal menu) + €35 (wine pairing)
Michelin: *
Date of visit: Spring 2012
Overall: 16/20
Pros: food, creativity, the friendly and enthusiastic sommelier, the space.
Cons: some inconsistency in the food (vegetable broth or the fried cod fish).
Moo
Hotel Omm, Rosselló 265, Barcelona
www.hotelomm.es/moo
16 April 2012
Fortaleza do Guincho (Guincho) * - HE
Integrated in the luxurious Fortaleza do Guincho hotel, the restaurant is an open window to the infinitude of the Atlantic ocean. Awarded with a Michelin star, the restaurant and its executive chefe, Vincent Farges, are characterised for a traditional French cuisine and a classic formal atmosphere.
Service: 15/20
Well intentioned and attentive. Improvements are required in the coordination cuisine-service-client...and in the minor details that differentiate the good from excellence.
Ambiance and decor: 15/20
It is a formal and heavy atmosphere in light blues and whites. The breathtaking view of the colourful ocean in the horizon makes every penny worth. For this reason, it is preferable to have lunch than dinner.
Food: 15/20
Vincent Farge's food is complex and detailed, it is not hard to see that each element in each dish has undergone several processes. The result is superb, full of colours and textures and yet it is wonderful classic French cuisine with fresh ingredients and a soft touch of Portugal...and a respect for the products' seasonality and consistency.
À la carte and two tasting menus are available. We opted for one of the tasting menus.
It all started with the amuse bouche, a trilogy composed of a pumpkin creme, a mussel pudding with a parsley foam and oxtail. A conservative start with comfortable food. Different textures, colours, with little magic, but great confection.
As a starter, we were served scallops with endives, simple and cooked to perfection. Autumn colours (even though it was Winter) and a pallet of textures seemed to be the recipe of the day. A winning combination.
The starter was followed by a fresh fillet of sea bass, steam cooked, with an aromatic and intense sauce and green vegetables. A straightforward dish it seems, but the processes in relation to its elements and the care in the preparation makes us understand that this is not for everyone. On my mind...the sauce...
As it was Winter, what about an Anjou pigeon? And if such pigeon had a complex and embodied red wine sauce, crepe with pigeon's leg and liver, dates and spicy vegetables?
Before the desserts, a grapefruit sorbet with grapefruit and a coconut and passion fruit panacotta. Fresh and a creative alternative. Halfway between a pre-dessert and a cleanser.And then there were 8, eight was the magic number of elements that composed the perfect ending: caramel, the cake base, pear, chocolate souffle, chocolate mousse, chocolate sorbet, tempered chocolate and dehydrated pear. It is hard to say if there was a
perfect harmony amongst all elements, but each of the elements was perfectly executed and that was good enough and I would go back there again just to eat it again.The petit fours, tea and check...in clearly one of the best classic restaurants and best views in Portugal.
Genre: French
Price: €60/75 (no wine included)
Michelin: *
Date of visit: Winter 2011
Overall: 15/20
Pros: Perfection in the cuisine, the view
Cons: Somewhat lack of creativity, certain deficiencies in the service and extremely conservative atmosphere.
Fortaleza do Guincho
Estrada do Guincho, 2750-642 Cascais
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