There is no such thing as the best restaurant in the world, pursuant to the same rationale there cannot be a second one. St. Pellegrino's classification is polemic and based on personal experiences and preferences that most certainly have gone to many different restaurants during their life, but probably not enough to positively state that one is the best in the world. The restaurants change every year (if not every month) and nobody could ever experiment all the best in only one year (well, maybe some people can, but it is highly unlikely). Finally, there are also personal considerations and everyday mood that influence each review...and so many other factors that impact on each evaluator opinion.
Having said this and taking into account that I have only been to a handful of top restaurants in the world, I can understand the reason why El Celler was considered the second best in the world and is a fair holder of 3 Michelin stars.
Other than that, Michel Roux, the famous chef of Le Gavroche in London, was the main guest for this mid-week lunch and sitting right next to us savoured his experience with appetite and we could sense a positive sign of envy and admiration for his fellow hosts.
Service: 19/20
When you say 19/20 it says everything.
Notwithstanding here are a few remarks to justify the 19. Precision on the coordination between the kitchen and the front of house, perfect timing, sensible judgement when approaching the table with a pleasant informality but tremendous competence and attentiveness. On top of that, the reception and regular visits to the table from the charming and entertaining Josep Roca, the somellier brother.
Ambiance and décor: 18/20
After invited to see the kitchen, located in the old building, by Josep we meet his brother, Joan, the head chef. Jordi, the pastry creative genious, was not around. The kitchen half traditional, half laboratory, is the dream of every wannabe chef.
The rest of the restaurant is smooth and tranquilizing in clean white, light brown and transparent with an indoor garden.
Food: 19,5/20
It is hard to tell how many dishes and non-dishes edible "things" came to the table, in my head there would only be a blur image of extraordinary colourful ingredients, in awkward harmonious combinations, from solid to liquid, hot and cold, if not for the pictures taken during the lunch.
(ii) the espárragos blancos con consomé de ibéricos (a comfortable combination with a fresh image);
(v) bacalao en brandada (with, among other things, cod foam, gut stew, olive oil, with scallions with honey and thyme...delicious, complex, deeply satisfying);
(x) and the desserts cart...
These dishes were from another world, the others were "only" perfect. For ease of reference, the pictures of the dishes above are displayed from top to bottom in accordance with the list and description above.
Overall: 19,5/20
Pros: Everything, service, ambiance, décor, food, the Rocas,...
Cons: maybe the traditionalists won't like it or understand this form of art.
Calle de Can Suyer, 48, 17007, Girona, Spain
http://www.cellercanroca.com
Price: €160 (Menú Festival) Wine pairing (€75)
Michelin: ***
St. Pellegrino World's Best Restaurants: 2nd (2012)
Date of visit: Spring 2012
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