12 November 2011

Arzak (San Sebastian)*** - HE

"La cocina es alegria y passion" (cuisine is joy and passion) told me Juan Mari Arzak after lunch at his restaurant and quickly became the opening statement of this blog. Juan Mari is a legend and a pioneer of modern cuisine in Spain together with Pedro Subijana (Akelarre) and a few years later by the famous Ferran Adria. Arzak is a mandatory pit-stop for food enthusiasts that pass by San Sebastian and is ran together by the great man and his daughter Elena.

Arzak will be always a reference worldwide, he was a few miles ahead of his time and combined new scientific technics with great quality ingredients to amaze his diners. His passion and skills helped to put Spain in the map in what relates to food and his contribution are incalculable. Arzak passed the "cooking virus" to new generations of amazing cooks, such as Ferran Adrian, Berasategui, Anduriz, Can brothers, Quique Dacosta, Jordi Cruz, amongst so many others... Nowadays it is hard to keep the number one spot in the country with such talented chefs, but Arzak is definitely a place not to miss.

Service: 17,5/20

The waiters were sometimes absent and relaxed, but informal and nice contrasting with the silence and quietude of the dining room which feels more like a sanctuary than a restaurant itself (as everyone around seemed absorbed by their food). The menu flowed with rhythm and the coordination with the kitchen was "made in Suisse".

Ambience and décor: 17/20

Sober dark decoration and yet clean and minimalist. The restaurant is relatively small and is located in the place where it all started some decades ago, and therefore the place is tight, small but neat and cosy.

Food: 18,5/20

Almost one year after my visit is hard to describe with precision every single dish on the tasting menu. However is hard to forget the food cooked to perfection and beautifully presented in colourful painting of a genius artist. Its incredible the technic in each of the dishes, the precision and care of every single element and the array of textures.

The amouse bouche were truly a work of art.

The signature dish cromlechs with foie represent the best of Arzak in a wonderful combination of technic, texture, creativity and flavour.

And then one of my favourites, simple and nowadays very common everywhere the low temperature egg dish...



Genre: Spanish/Modern
Price: €175/person (no wine included)
Michelin: *** (2011: 8th S. Pellegrino World's Best Restaurant)
Date of Visit: Summer 2011

Overall: 18/20

Pros: the cromlechs and the food

Cons: aspects of the service


Arzak
Av. Alcalde Elosegui, 273, 20015 Donostia - San Sebastian
www.arzak.info

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